SIX MONTHS IN THE GREAT SANDY DESERT

The Paterson Range is a low set of hills in the north west section of the  Great Sandy Desert 250 km east of Marble Bar.
 David Tyrwhitt, a geologist with the Newmont mining company during  1972 staked the first claims on the main dome in May of that year. He has written a history of this large gold find in the desert, titled:  Desert Gold - the discovery and development of Telfer- 1995.
Newmont was an American company founded in the 1920's which later, in 1966 formed an Australian offshoot - Newcrest -which is now the countries largest gold producer. 

 

The claim staking has been contested since that time by Jean Paul Turcaud

- a French prospector, former Legionnaire and crop-duster pilot.

 

 

 

                                                                   A sketch of the first claim pegging

This story begins following the initial pegging of the claim and involves first attempts to find a way for vehicles through the ranges into the desert, the establishment of a tent camp and the drilling of the first holes into the main dome at Fanny Hill. I was working with Newmont at the time as a Field Assistant on various projects in Australia.
The photographs contained in this story came from slides which have been sitting in a cupboard since 1972. They have been reproduced digitally using a light box and close-up lens.  As a consequence, the quality is less than perfect but sufficient to tell the story.

                                                            The original topographic map used in 1972  


 

 

 

                   An aerial view of the main dome in the Paterson Range,
                              250km east of Marble Bar WA.                     

The main dome shaped geological structure was named "Fanny Hill" during the first couple of years due to its shape from the air. This was obviously going to change if a mine was to be developed. The name "Telfer" was given in honour of a former under secretary of mines in WA.

MARBLE BAR

The camp at Marble Bar was located not far from the bar itself on the banks of the Coongan River It had comfortable air conditioned quarters and was used as a base for the first serious exploration of the Paterson Range gold prospect in the desert to the east.
 

 

                                        


                                                                           The ‘marble bar’ on the Coongan River.

My first work at Marble Bar entailed walking the many kilometres of dry creek beds around the town. I would take a teaspoon sample of gravel at regular intervals.  These samples were sent to a lab in Perth to be analysed for copper in parts per million. Over time, a contour map of copper values was built up and any ‘high’ areas were then worthy of further exploration.

At the end of a long hot day we would go into town to the ‘Iron Clad’ Hotel to have a cold beer.  My first mistake at this pub was to go into the wrong side of the bar.  It was a segregated bar – black one side, white the other. Curries were served for lunch in summer to improve beer sales – but I don’t think they needed improving.
 

                                                                              

                                 

The Marble Bar Common where my main work involved geochemical stream sampling for copper.

 

 

                                                                     Newmont headquarters, Marble Bar
 

FIRST FORAYS INTO THE DESERT

 One of the main problems facing Newmont was the remote location of the Paterson Range prospect and lack of vehicular tracks into the area from Marble Bar.

Nigel Watts, Dominique Lawler and I were given the job of finding a suitable track through the ranges and into the desert.  We were assisted by Dick Jury, a competent manager of all things mechanical and logistical.  Dick had been a fitter on Hurricanes during the Second World War in Africa.  He had the idea of finding a way through the hills near the old Ragged Hills lead mine at Braeside.  This would enable us to proceed down into the desert proper and follow the dune system straight through to the range.  The dunes ran from north-west to south-east heading directly for the Paterson Range.  It would then be an easy drive running parallel with the dunes.

The idea failed at the first attempt when the Landover broke an axle in rocky ground, not far from the start of the desert.  Nigel and Dominic  were stuck in rocky terrain near Ragged Hills.  It was decided to air drop a new axle to them.  We were in radio contact and set up a time for an air drop at their location.  We took off from Marble Bar in the Maule  and after half an hour or so  sighted their signal fire.
 

 

                  The Maule Rocket VH-TML after a rough landing near Fanny Hill
 

 

 

VH-TML still in use today - a fabric covered short takeoff aircraft   

 

 Signal fires worked well in the desert for locating people in trouble.  GPS was yet to be invented.  Being the passenger, I had the new axle on my lap wrapped in foam.  During a low pass over the breakdown site, I was able to open the door and throw it out at precisely the right time for a successful landing near the broken down truck.

Dominique and Nigel were able to fit the axle and continue on their way back to Marble Bar.

The next trip was more successful as the hard work of getting through the rocky stuff had already been done.  Once in the dune system, it was a matter of compass bearings and distance travelled.  At one stage, we were hopeful of finding our location by the beginning and ends of dunes.  This was very inaccurate as each dune had shifted length over time since the map had been printed.

           Part of the  original topographic map showing first airstrip

By climbing the dunes every few miles we eventually found the outline of Lamil Hills - a low set of hills on the horizon.  Driving was arduous due to the very large clumps of Spinifex grass growing between the dunes.  Once the Lamil Hills were locked in we were able to find our way by compass to the main dome of the Paterson Range, called Fanny Hill. Wild donkeys were common in this country often spotted by the big ears poking up over a dune before the animal came into view.

 

                                                                          Approaching Fanny Hill from the air

 

                                                                                             The dome today

A PERMANENT CAMP

 Our next trip was in June 1972 to establishing the first camp.  A bulldozer and grader had already established a rough track through the hills to the desert beyond.  Our campsite consisted of a few canvas tents and was located on a small dry creek line draining from the NW point of the dome.  Once all the tents were up and things were sorted, Doug Fallows and I decided to test his dolly pot - a small hand operated mortar and pestle to see if we could find any gold on the surface.  Doug was a traditional prospector from the Kalgoorlie area with many years experience.  He eventually located another mine site to the SW which is still a going concern. It has been named after him - ‘Fallows Field’.  He died in the late 70’s.  I remember him going off with his dolly pot and gold pan with a lump of dried beef hanging from his belt for snacking during the day.  After pounding and panning a few ironstone and quartz rocks from the creek bed, Doug was astounded by the large bits of visible gold coming out of the rock.

First camp at Fanny Hill, located on the NW corner of the dome. The creek line behind contained rich surface gold

 

A piece of quartz from the dry creek bed containing a small nugget about the size of a matchhead.  (a specimen from the author’s mineral collection) 
 

THE AIRSTRIP  
 
Once set up in the first camp on the northern side of Fanny Hill we searched for a place to safely land the Maule on a regular basis. We found a suitable small claypan a few kilometres SE of the dome.

 

                        Claypan airstrip SE of the main dome. The airstrip appears as a thin line running SE.

 Photo courtesy Google Earth

This was a readymade airstrip and required no grading, just a few larger gibbers removed.

Later, it was found to be long enough for the twin engine Beechcraft that brought in supplies once the second and more permanent camp was established.

Flying out in the Beechcraft was always exhilarating as the airstrip was only just long enough.  A large sand hill at the southern end had to be cleared during takeoff.

My first flight in from Marble Bar was to deliver a drum of fuel and water, which were strapped in on the back seats. Two adults plus the fuel and water meant the Maule was at maximum load.  Half way out through the desert the pilot decided to do some low level buzzing of camels.  Unfortunately, just prior to take-off, I had consumed a can of hot Fanta.  Nothing to throw up in?   Easy, take off your boot.
 I was starting to recognize various features on my flights such as the end of the rocky hills near the Oakover River explored by Frank Gregory during August 1861 -  the beginning of the dunes running toward the south east - Lake Waukarlycarly, a massive salt lake to the north and the Lamil Hills leading down to the Paterson Range.

                            Coming in to land on the claypan whilst holding boot of vomit between my feet.

Upon returning to Marble Bar, the wind had strengthened and was blowing at a difficult angle for the landing of the Maule.  There was no-one around that day, so the pilot decided to land on the access road to the airport and taxi across the grass through a gap in the fence to the small terminal building.

THE NEW CAMP

In November 1972, we moved camp to the SW side of the dome.  A drill hole for toilet and water were completed (some distance apart from each other) using a Glindermann and Kitching drilling rig.  A toilet pan was placed over the drill hole, which I think was about 50 metres deep.

The water was pumped from the other hole for drinking and bathing.  We even had an above ground pool, which was a life saver during the summer in the desert.  This pool was visited occasionally by thirsty camels.   

 

Approaching the second campsite in the Maule

 

                                                                                 Second camp, Fanny Hill

The photo shows the second camp set up with sleeping tents for visiting geologists, a mess area and  one of the old AEC trucks used to bring in more gear. Shade trees were scarce so we set up the office/mess area to gain some shade during the afternoon from the three gum trees. The landrover on top of the truck had a broken chassis - the result of my first attempt at bringing in 4 fuel drums across the desert from Marble Bar.  The trucks were AEC  six-wheel drive Militants called ‘ Monster’ and ‘Myrtle’ and had a max speed of 35mph. We were able to bring in heavier gear such as diesel generators.

 

       A Beechcraft Baron buzzing the camp. This was our signal to meet at the airstrip.

LIFE IN THE DESERT

The solitude was memorable.  Sometimes, I was the only human within a radius of 200kms. I remember only one rainfall event during my time in the desert, a large threatening cloud which produced a few drops but mainly preceding dust. I was solitary caretaker for up to a week at a time, the only contact being a radio schedule at 4pm each day with Newmont’s Perth office.

Generally we had six weeks work followed by a flight to Perth for a week off.  Everything was provided by the company so my pay cheque went straight into the bank.  There was nowhere to spend money anyway.

 

 

    Desert companions - Legless Lizards and great sunsets

 

 DRILLING THE DOME

During December it was decided to bring in some small percussion drilling rigs mounted on the back of Landrovers in order to test some of the ground on the main dome. The tracks were still very rough for larger rigs to be brought in.

This proved successful and they were able to indicate some of the first ore reserves on the dome.

 

 

 An overnight stop in the desert - from left, Dick Jury who often had his head in his hands, a driller, Nigel Watts and Doug Fallows.  I slept in a bed on top of the green Landrover.

                                Approaching the Paterson Range with the Landrover mounted rigs

 

                                Doug Fallows watches as the first drill hole goes in on the dome – hole no. PR1

The larger drilling rigs were difficult to get to the site.  A heavy truck was always at risk of sinking into the desert sand.  The rig in the photo eventually made it and was used to drill into the NW gossan – a separate prospect  NW of the dome.
 

 

 

                           A Glindemman and Kitching rig stuck in deep sand at the desert edge.

 

 

                                                                               NW gossan from the air
 

                                                                              First drill hole on the NW gossan.

MOVING OUT

As the end of December approached, I was relocated to another gold prospect on the east coast - at Drake in NSW.  Most of the landrovers and caravans from the Marble Bar headquarters were taken to Perth via the inland road through Mt Newman and down to Meekathara - a memorable trip in convoy which took 3 days.  I could sit back and relax whilst driving the Landrover by using a hand throttle on a ratchet on the dashboard – an early method of cruise control- although somewhat difficult to disengage in a hurry.

                                      Landrovers and caravans on their way to Perth after the initial drilling of Telfer.

 

40 YEARS OF MINING

Telfer is now one of the largest gold mines in Australia.  Approximately 6 million ounces of gold was produced at Telfer between 1975 (when operations began) and 2000 (when the mine closed).  Between November 2004 - when processing re-commenced - to the end of June 2012, Telfer produced more than 4 million ounces of gold.
For the 2012 financial year, Telfer produced 540,115 ounces of gold and 31,236 tonnes of copper.

This Blog is still under construction. If you have any further old photographs or stories please email me, especially pre-1972.

Max Elliott   Feb 2013